• GE’s 44-Ton Locomotive – A Modeler’s Odyssey – Part 1

    GE’s 44-Ton Locomotive – A Modeler’s Odyssey – Part 1

    Shawn Branstetter

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    Amador Central No. 8 with three cars from Ione, California, heading to Martell. Photo from the Pacific Northwest Railroad Archive

    Few locomotives have left as lasting an impression on shortline railroads and industrial switching as the General Electric (GE) 44-ton diesel-electric switcher. Compact, versatile, and engineered to meet a particular regulatory niche, the 44-tonner became one of the most recognizable light switchers of the mid-20th century.

    I wasn’t a massive fan of 44-tonners; however, after quite a bit of research, that sentiment quickly changed.

    As some of you may know, my modeling has been inspired over the years by the logging and mining industries. Recently, I have been doing more research for my railroad, and I never realized how many California shortlines once had a 44-tonner in their roster. Now, my interest is piqued.

    Camino, Placerville & Lake Tahoe 102 near Placerville, CA 8/6/80. Photo by Andy Rimmington.

    Origins

    After conducting extensive research, I found some interesting information about the locomotive. Introduced in 1940, the GE 44-ton switcher was primarily designed to replace steam switch engines on industrial lines and small railroads. At that time, labor agreements in the U.S. required a fireman to operate any locomotive weighing more than 90,000 pounds. Weighing just under this limit—about 88,000 pounds in working order—the 44-tonner could be operated legally with only an engineer, which helped reduce operating costs for smaller railroads.

    The locomotive was designed with double-reduction gearing, which provided strong pulling power even with modest horsepower. Its compact wheelbase of 6 feet 10 inches allowed it to navigate curves as tight as a 50-foot radius, making it well-suited for industrial and branch line service.

    Stockton Terminal & Eastern Railroad Diesel Locomotive Number 25 at Stockton, California in August, 1973. Photo from the Pacific Northwest Railroad Archive.

    These little locomotives were starting to grow on me, and based on my research, would be a perfect addition to my Northern California shortline.

    The Base Model

    Fast forward a bit, and I had the opportunity to purchase a couple of Rich Yoder 44-ton brass imports, which I bought: a Phase IV and a Phase I. I like these models-reasonably priced and a great starting point for modelers to super-detail them. All my locomotives are dead-rail. That means I use a remote control and batteries to run my equipment. I began working on a plan to install an S-Cab system in them; however, under each hood is a motor powering each truck. This leaves little room for most of my equipment.

    Jay Criswell, owner of Right-O’-Way, mentioned to me that he was experimenting with small motors with gearboxes that would work on these models. The Phase I model I purchased was from him with these motors attached to the trucks. This would leave room in the hoods for my equipment.

    Time to Learn New Skills

    The first locomotive I purchased was from fellow modeler, Jeffery (Jeff) Duprey. It was a later Phase IV model. I disassembled it and began planning ways to improve the details and plan the installation of the S-Cab equipment.

    After finding a set of plans in the April 1973 issue of Model Railroader Magazine, as well as a few digital copies of the original operations manuals, I noticed some flaws in the models. To start, the locomotive frames are approximately 12 inches too long. Both hoods are almost six inches too short and wide. The width is to accommodate the large motors.

    Motors and Wiring Arrangement

    I was disappointed; however, it occurred to me that I might be able to fix some of the flaws. I’m familiar with modeling in Styrene, but not in brass. So I began reaching out to friends who have worked in brass to gather tips and tricks for working in the medium.

    Jeff and I began to discuss the project, and he informed me that he is an engineer at a railroad museum and drives a 44-ton locomotive. He was kind enough to provide so many details on the construction and how the locomotives work. He also took extensive photos of the underframe, cab, and electrical and air equipment under the cab.

    The locomotives are even simpler than I realized, and so I decided to build a scale underframe as well.

    44 Ton frame

    My first challenge was a lack of detailed blueprints. Jeff provided measurements of the frame components, and along with the plans from Model Railroader, I started drawing the frame and air lines. I have never drawn accurate scale drawings before, so this was my first learning experience. I used Adobe Illustrator to create the basic components and sent them to Jeff for review. I made changes based on the suggestions he made.

    I printed each piece of the frame and attached it to the appropriate brass sheets. Using a jeweler’s saw, I began cutting them out. I couldn’t believe how sloppy my skills at cutting and filing are, and I was frustrated. So much so, I thought about scrapping the project.

    I spent a few days continuing my drawings, and then another crazy idea occurred to me: what if I laser-cut all the components and create a kind of kit? I researched laser cutters, but those are currently out of my price range, and I’m unsure if this is a one-time scenario. Further research revealed a few companies in the United States that offer laser cutting services. They can cut “shim” brass sheets, some even cutting as small as 0.005″ sheet.

    44 Ton Locomotive Frame Drawing
    44 Ton Locomotive Frame Profile Drawing

    I uploaded a few of my component drawings from Illustrator and tried two different companies: SendCutSend, and OSH Cut. Each has a set of standard thicknesses they work with, and I designed most of the parts to accommodate their specs.

    Once I received the parts, I was impressed by the quality and the precision of the cuts. Now that I have a clear path forward, I can tighten my designs and start building.

    The Plan

    The current plan is to build two locomotives. I’ll start with the Phase I model. In this project, I will create a complete underframe and detail it as thoroughly as possible. The hoods and cab will remain original, and I will modify the frame to accommodate the Yoder structure. This will give me the chance to improve my soldering skills and refine my technical drawing capabilities.

    If this works well, I plan to completely scratch-build the later Phase IV model, but salvage as much as I can. This should be a fun project, so stay tuned as I post more and talk about what I learn along the way. Who knows, I could even create a kit for anyone who wants to build one as well.

  • Setting the Scene: Planning Structures for Angels Creek

    Setting the Scene: Planning Structures for Angels Creek

    Shawn Branstetter

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    When I was a kid, model builder Al Armitage scratch-built a model of an old brick building he named “The Sonora Store.” Later, Tom York made hydrocal kits for these, and I have always wanted to build a model of it myself. If you grew up in the foothills of California’s Gold Country, you’ll recognize these old brick buildings. Because of wildfire concerns, stone and brick were used to help prevent the buildings from burning. Most have fallen into disrepair over the one-hundred and fifty-plus years they were built. The large iron doors and window covers were even more unique and used for added fire protection.

    Coppereopolis Armory
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copperopolis_Armory

    By chance, I found a kit for sale on Ebay and decided to purchase it, not knowing if I would use it for the layout or a diorama. After sitting on a shelf for quite a while, I wanted to see if the structure would fit the area. The idea is to slightly modify the kit, leaving off the right side wall and mounting it flush against the backboard. The addition of this building should make Angels Camp look perfect.

    Now, that leaves the space on the south side of the road to add a gas station. I have admired Chuck Doan’s Red Oak Garage, which he scratch-built several years ago, and I would like to create something similar here. Due to space limitations (5 inches deep by 6 inches wide), something this size will not work. I do have an Evergreen Hills 1930s Gas Station kit that will fit the scene but I want to scratch build something for this area. My idea is to modify the Evergreen Hills kit to resemble Chuck Doan’s model and match the style of a building in Calaveras County.

     

    Below is the current plan for this module. The next step will be to start assembling the Sonora Store kit as well as drawing plans for the gas station build.

    Drawing of Angels Creek scene

  • Modeling Angels Creek

    Modeling Angels Creek

    Shawn Branstetter

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    One of the highlights of my Sierra Pacific Railroad is Angels Creek and the trestle crossing on the railroad’s main line. Although the railroad is freelanced and headquartered in Angels Camp, CA., I am trying to incorporate many actual scenes and details in and around the location to make the layout seem prototypical. Also, having grown up in the area, it reminds me of my childhood and all the rich history in the area.

    Calaveras County, California Bridges; Algiers Street Bridge across Angels Creek by Mark Yashinsky

    Preparing the Creek Bed

    The creek bed and surrounding scenery is a mixture of natural and commercial material. The base is styrofoam sheet that has been roughly shaped to contour I was looking for. I followed that by adding plaster soaked gauze to cover and protect the styrofoam. Finally, Sculptamold was used to make the final creek shape. If you’re from the Sierra Nevada foothills, you know how rocky the area is. Real rocks from the area were broken up with a hammer and the pieces were place into the scluptamold and let it dry.

    The entire area was painted a flat earth color to hide any white plaster showing through before I added the dirt base. The dirt is from the area that I am modeling in Angels Camp to make it as realistic as possible. I typically add tile grout to the dirt to keep it from becoming too dark when the glue has dried, however, in this case I did not. Doing this gave the soil a much darker appearance than the rest of the scenery, giving it a “wet” look typical of banks and shores of bodies of water. I soaked the entire area and used a mix of water and white glue to secure everything in place. I also added additional surface stones to the creek bed to match the prototype. Once dry, I added grass, weeds and bushes to finish the surrounding area.

    Water

    The water was created using is a 2-part epoxy resin from AK Interactive. I poured this is several layers as the instructions stated. This also let me add color to each layer to add “depth” to the water and give it a prototypical brown color because of all the iron and minerals in the creek. Acrylic paints from AK Interactive were used to add the color to the resin.

    I started with the bottom layer, which was the darkest in opacity. Keep in mind, a little color, goes a long way so I recommend experimenting with the amount of acrylic paint you use in your resin. A couple of drops is all I typically use unless I am wanting the body of water to be very dark (perfect for deeper bodies of water). I used an old paint brush to push the resin into place and covered the entire creek bottom. this also helps the resin flow into all the natural scenery elements. Each layer of resin was allowed to cure for 24 hours. I also used a micro torch to remove any bubbles in the resin immediately after each layer was poured.

    With each layer, the color was much lighter and I also added more vegetation closer to the water and into the water in some areas.

    The water in Angels Creek is usually moving but not enough to show white caps. Now that I have all my resin layers completed it was time to add ripples to the water. I used AK Interactive’s Transparent, Acrylic Water Gel to represent moving water. I brushed this on in several coats to make some of the ripples larger around the boulders on the creek bed.

    That’s pretty much all there is to it. It’s a very simple technique but did take me some practice to achieve the look I was after. Now to add the rest of the vegetation.

  • Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 6

    Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 6

    Shawn Branstetter

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    As many of you can relate, twists and turns can sometimes slow us down or even pause our beloved hobbies. This has been my reality for the past 12 months. However, the transition of two of my sons to college has opened up new opportunities for me to expand my track plan, utilizing more of the basement. I’m also making a conscious effort to free up time for building models; this journey has been a challenging but rewarding break from work.

    The benchwork for my current layout spans 11 feet by 8 feet and features the Angels Creek scene and interchange track. But here’s the thrilling part—the expansion I’m planning would increase the layout size to 11 feet by 22 feet, allowing me to model part of the Alpine lumber mill intricately. The possibilities are truly exciting! 

    Scenes from the current Angels Creek Module
    Scenes from the current Angels Creek Module

    I began to draw a rough track plan and send it to Tim Horn so he could start planning the modules needed for the expansion. The early drawing shows how the current modules integrate with the new modules, shown in white. I was able to incorporate the feed supply and the lumber company. 

    With the basic idea in hand, I started drawing a more detailed track plan. 

    Track Plan & Operation

    The new plan would give me more room to store equipment starting in the shops. As with the previous plan, I want to keep curves to a minimum of 48 inches in radius, and the shop extension helps reduce the tight curves on the current module. The interchange tracks and Angels Creek module would remain untouched. Scenery has begun in these areas, and I’m pleased with how they look. 

    As trains travel upgrade, the first customer would be feed and tractor supply. Box cars and flat cars of feed, tractors, and other farming supplies would be the leading freight cars to be located here.

    As the train continues up the hill to Murphys, the track would travel over Highway 4 and Coyote Creek before reaching the Alpine Lumber Company. The trestle crossing Highway 4 would be almost 4 feet long and the first scene people see as they enter the basement. This should be an impressive sight.

    Alpine Lumber Company

    As mentioned in the first installment, Alpine Lumber is one of the owners of the Sierra Pacific Railroad. The Alpine Lumber Company property would have an old loading shed for lumber storage and loading onto box cars and flat cars.

    I purchased a Rich Yoder 45-ton diesel and would like to paint it for Alpine Lumber. This locomotive would move cars for loading and unloading throughout the property. 

    The lumber company would also have tank cars to supply fuel and oil for the facility and its operation. Finally, an old slash burner would be modeled in disrepair, and a new woodchip loader would be added for shipping material to plywood makers.

    Final Thought

    Since I’m using the Sierra Railroad as my inspiration, I would like a Y track for turning locomotives. Since space is limited, I suggest building a traverser off the layout, similar to what micro-model railroaders use to turn their equipment. This can be attached to the side of the layout on the main heading to Arnold.

    I will once again be using Tim Horn Lasercutting to build the modules. Tim is a wonderful designer and just great to work with. He is going to be a big help in designing the modules. 

    Finally, I have started putting together a “mood board” to help plan and inspire the design of the buildings and scenery. Designers use mood boards daily to help inspire ideas for product design and product strategy. They are wonderful tools to help guide and inspire modelers as well. To build this I pulled images from Facebook groups and Google searches.

    I’m planning on moving the current layout from its current location to the new basement location. As I progress, more updates will follow.

  • Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 5

    Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 5

    Shawn Branstetter

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    Building the Angels Creek Bridge and Creek Bed

    As the mainline was moving West to the shops, I paused for a moment in order to work on the Angels Creek section of the layout. As I have been working out ideas, mainly in my head, this scene has been continually daunting. I’m not sure why, however, I do know this scene is going to push my modeling skills. I believe my last count was 4 trees in this area and I have never modeled a tree before. I have started practicing but more about that some other time.

    An image of Angels Creek from Google Street View.

    Growing up in Calaveras county and driving on Highway 49, you will eventually cross this creek. I did many times and love the area around it so naturally I wanted to find a place for it on my layout. For those following along, Tim Horn was kind enough to add a 2-inch drop in the module baseboard to accommodate the Angels Creek scene. The width of the recess is 10-inches which will allow me to build a short trestle approximately 39 scale feet in length.

    Photos by Tim Horn

    Designing the Scene

    I did take some artist license and change the location of Murphys Grade Road. In real life, the road is about a mile north of the creek. Moving the road a bit closer adds a bit more visual interest and some contrast to the overall scene. I am planning to add a couple of structures to this area to add even more interest, however, I have not yet finished that plan.

    A rough sketch of the scene was made then drawn on my computer to give me an idea of what the overall look was going to be. Happy with it, I went ahead and started workin on the land forms. In a previous post, I did mention I started adding scenery to the area to test some material and my skills.

    Most of my scenery techniques are from building dioramas over the years and since I am used to smaller scenery bases, this was a bit intimidating at first. For the scenery base, I used Styrofoam, plaster cloth and Scluptamold. Pretty standard on most modern dioramas and layouts. When the base was set, I painted everything with an earth color latex paint and allowed to completely dry.

    I am using dirt I collected in 5 gallon buckets from the angels camp area to make sure the ground cover is the correct color. The dirt is sifted into two selections: course and fine. A food strainer is used for course material while a tea strainer and sometimes even pantyhose is used for finer dirt.

    Food strainers can be purchased at any grocery store.
    A tea strainer used for finer sifted material.

    I add a light coat to the scene, working in a small area at a time. I wet the area using a squirt bottle filled with water and a few drops of dish soap. White glue, diluted with water is then used to seal the dirt. As you may know, real dirt tends to darken when glued in place and as some modelers pointed out, grout added to the dirt helps keep its color. I’ve been experimenting with some non-sanded grout and trying to get the ratios correct for my soil.

    The Bridge Deck

    Now that the basic shape of the creek is roughed in, I turned my attention to the bridge. Since this is a freelanced railroad, I took my specifications from the Southern Pacific and Sierra Railroad. I started building the bridge before I received the module based on the dimensions. I had the bridge completed then assembled the module, however, my measurements were slightly off. Again, my problem with getting a bit too anxious in building got me again.

    Although I am not keeping the model, I did learn a lot and was able to spend quite a bit of time researching trestle construction. I started by getting the actual measurements of the bridge location then cut the stringers to length.

    Typically engineers would offset stringer joints.

    Sierra Railroad Black Oak Trestle. Photo by Sean Berry-Kelly

    Although you would never see the stringer joints from the bottom, I chose not to off set them and score all joints in the same location to locate the bents. Studying the image above of Sierra Railroad’s Black Oak trestle, you’ll notice that they built it with four stringers and only four legs. Amazingly, this was strong enough to hold the weight of Mallet #38.

    I decided to use four stringers as well, however I added an additional leg to the bents. Mostly because I like the look of five leg trestles but there are strength rating reasons to add the additional support as seen in this diagram.

    I created a drilling jig from styrene which was the length of the timbers. Using my workbench drill press, I was able to drill clean, even holes for the nut-bolt-washer details. These holes would also help me align the stringer spacers as you will see momentarily.

    Once the holes are drilled, I began my weathering. Using a razor saw and a dull X-acto blade, I roughened the wood and added cracks and gouges.

    Weathering is done is several steps using black India ink and water. The ink is heavily diluted and applied in several coats.

    Step 1. Stain each piece of strip wood
    Step 2. Lightly sand some of the wood
    Step 3. A couple of additional coats of the stain then sand again if needed and repeat the staining. I do this to create a uniform look to the color and highlight areas where the sun has begun bleaching the wood

    Wood weathers differently around the world due to the environmental conditions. I would highly recommend that you research samples in the area you are modeling.

    Normally I would use stripwood to space the stringers, however, I decided to add a bit of hidden detail in the stringers by using cast spacers. These were typically called washers and ranged in width from 1-inch to about 4-inches. Ed Traxler and I discussed 3D printing them and he was able to come up with a wonderful design. We decided to go with 2-inch spacers and they can be found on his MicroMimesis web site if you wish to purchase some yourself.

    Using the holes I already pre-drilled, I cut a spacer off the sprue and inserted .020 wire from Tichy Train Group. CA was used to secure it in place. This part of the build is quite tedious and required quite a bit of patience but the results are worth it in my opinion.

    Once the spacers are dry, I begin adding my Nut-Bolt-Washer (NBW) details. Again, I use CA to secure everything in place.

    Now that the worst part of the build is over, construction went much faster. I built a jig using stripwood from my scrap box to secure the stringers and align the ties while I added them to the structure. I pre-stained the ties as I did the stringers and allowed them to dry completely. Then using a straightedge, I aligned the first tie, secured it in place with CA and allowed it to dry. The first alignment is critical otherwise all of your ties will be off and look terrible. Using stripwood, I then began adding the other ties, double checking square as I proceeded.

    I then turned my attention to the timber guards. I notched them as per the prototype in order for the timbers to overlap and be bolted onto the ties. I then added grain details and stained them before glueing them into place.

    I’m using 2 methods for drilling the NBW details. The larger 2-inch bolts I am using my workbench drill press. For the nails, I’m using my hand drill. I use tape to align the holes for the bolts to attach the ties to the stringers. These are bolted on top and bottom and so the holes need to go all the way through. I also did the same for the guard timbers. The timbers are bolted to the ties at the timber joints while nails would be used to secure the timbers to the remaining ties. All of this detail was important for me to include since the shelf layout is small and all structures will be viewed up close.

    It was amazing how much work I spent trying to figure out what type of abutments I was going to use and how they were built. Asking a lot of questions for fellow modelers on the Proto48 Group, there were a lot of retired engineers who helped with that information. I decided to go with wood timber abutments. I assembled them with the legs a bit long so I could trim them to the proper length when they were secured to the layout.

    The abutments were attached to the layout with Liquid Nails adhesive. While the abutments were drying, I set the deck in place to make sure the timbers were at the right height and level.

    The Bents

    I begin creating the bents by cutting the pieces to size and lightly pre-staining them. The legs were glued to the cap with CA and allowed to dry. After everything was dry, I trimmed the access material from the let and attached the sill.

    Next I moved on to concrete footings. I made a casting using stripwood which I distressed similar to the bents. I mixes extra fine sand and plaster, added a bit of flat black to add color and allowed to dry for 24 hours.

    The molds were removed and the castings were set aside. Some of the remaining plaster was broken up and I used that to test some weathering techniques. I spent some time looking at prototype concrete to get an idea of colors and textures. I used the image below as a guide.

    I used a wire brush to scratch the surface and expose the aggregate. I followed that up with a wet paper towel to smooth the surface. I mixed Woodland Scenics acrylic aged concrete with just a touch of flat black. This was heavily diluted and applied with a paper towel. I was happy with the results as a base. Once the footings are in place I will finish weathering to look more like the prototype photo below.

    As noted before, I had already added the basic land forms so I needed to cut out foundations for the bents.

    The bent was set in place and white glue used to set it in place and allowed to dry for 24 hours. I followed that with dirt and glued that in place.

    The second bent was built and installed the same way. Again, I allowed it to dry and added dirt to the scene and set that in place.

    All that is left now is to complete the rail and finish weathering. I am very happy with how this model turned out and I very much appreciate all the input to guide my research. Hopefully I will be able to get to the creek bed and vegetation soon. For now, work will continue on the main line.

  • Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 4

    Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 4

    Shawn Branstetter

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    Laying the first rails on the Angels Creek module.

    I’m sure I’m not alone when it comes to model building. I’m always in a hurry to build something and move onto the next. With that said, improper planning of how I was going to lay my rails did prove to be a challenge for me as you will see in a moment.

    I really want to spend time on my track. To me, the track is as important, if not more so, than the equipment running on it. While my track may not be one hundred percent accurate, I do want it to be as prototypical as possible. A significant amount of studying was conducted over the last few years to learn what it takes to build a prototype track for the era I am modeling. I built several switches, all using Right O’ Way components, to try and master the skill of hand laying track, as well as trying to figure out the best way to build them (for me). Everyone has their own way of doing things, so take my advice as just one approach.

    Here is an example of my early track building and weathering.

    Track Planning

    As the modules were hung in place, I began laying out the basic track plan onto the baseboard to get an idea of where components and scenery elements need to be.

    My original plan was to build my modules removable and temporary. As I planed my track, I decided to build my track that way as well. Unfortunately a switch fell right in the middle of a joint which means the switch would have to be built on two modules. After speaking with some fellow modelers I decided to make them a bit more permanent. If I ever do move the modules I can use a saw to cut the rails and take the modules apart. Too late for the second switch of the first module, I am building it in two parts and it has proved to be quite challenging. Lesson learned.

    I decided to cut all my rails to a scale 39-feet to give me a rough look of moderately maintained track. So far this is working out well and looks great.

    As mentioned, there are two switches on the Angels Creek module. There is also a crossing with Murphys Grade Road and a bridge over Angels Creek. I decided to start with the first switch by the trestle bridge. I cut my base from GatorBoard, which is light weight and extremely rigid, then headed to my bench to lay the rail.

    Laying Rails

    Illustration be Shawn Branstetter

    Most prototypes offset their spikes in the tie plate to help prevent the wood tie from splitting. The prototype railroads I am using as inspiration used four spikes per tie which is what I will do as well.

    Each section of track is being built on my workbench in 18-inch sections. Gene Deimling has referred to this as a detailed snap track, and I would have to agree with him. I like this technique because it allows me to relax, take my time, and detail my track while sitting down. It seems much easier for me.

    I had previously build a 7.5 switch and used that to align the second switch and siding which I’ve started calling the shop lead. I laid the ties and then laid the ties for the first switch. All mainline track is code 125 rail, however, I am using code 100 in the shops area and some sidings. The shop lead is the first transition to code 100, so compromise joints were soldered in place. A shim for the ties was used to bring the ties up to the proper height at the joint and then sanded to ease it back down to the base level. All rail was cut, cleaned and sprayed with Rustoleum Camo Earth Brown as the base color.

    Once the glue had dried on the ties for the second switch and siding, I staines the ties with my typical India Ink and water and brushed it onto the wood ties in several light coats. I follow that up with dirt I collected in Angels Camp, California. This dirt is mixed with just a bit of non-sanded tile grout to help keep the color light as the waster/glue mix tends to darken it a bit. After the dirt is dry I will follow it up with my ballast mix which you can read about here: Ballast for Low Maintained Track. I then spike some of the rails in place and then start working on the first switch.

    After the scenery is dry, I like to add one or two light coats of my ink wash to add color variations to the ties.
    Track Modeling

    Building Switches

    My technique for building switches is fairly straight forward. I won’t go into full detail as I wrote about it in the April 2021 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman magazine.

    I position the rail (which is a little longer than 39 feet here but will be cut later) and solder the rail braces into place. I also position the guard rails and solder them in place as well. After all metal parts are soldered, I clean the rails then apply plastic details such as bolts and braces.

    I will then spray everything with Earth Brown and then start laying in place. I follow that with a light wash of acrylic rust colors to finish the track sections.

    I secure the track sections to the base board using liquid nails and screws. The GatorBoard does take the screws but are there to only keep it secure while the adhesive dries. I then set the second section in place and secure that the same way.

    Although the way I am laying the track is a bit unconventional, I am finding it quite rewarding and a lot of fun. I’m hoping to start the Angels creek bridge for the next post.

  • Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 3

    Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 3

    Shawn Branstetter

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    Benchwork has always been a problem for me. I’ve never had the time or space to learn to build proper benchwork so most of my modeling has been confined to diorama’s. With that said, I turned to Tim Horn of Tim Horn Lasercutting to produce the the layout in 4 sections.

    A basic drawing was created in Adobe Illustrator which Tim used to design the modules. There was a slight edit made in the final design which, was the addition of a creek bed for the Angels Creek bridge. I have purchased a module from Tim in the past and knew of the quality he produces so I was extremely excited to get these modules once the designs were finalized.

    Photos of the modules by Tim Horn

    Based on the design, three of the modules would have to be custom made and one, a three-foot module, would be one of Tim’s standard designs.

    Tim was able to send three of the four modules and I started assembling them. Assembly is straight-forward; wood glue and provided wood screws. The modules are 24-inches deep so I purchased 16-inch long metal brackets to provide a base for the modules to rest on. 2×2 inch wood was fastened to the walls and then the modules were fastened to them to secure them in place.

    As I secured the modules to the walls, bolts provided by Tim were used to bolt the modules together at the base and top.

    I assembled the Angels Creek module first so I could experiment with scenery and trackwork. I did add a 3mm sheet of plywood to the front as the fascia, however I decided to remove it to have a continuous fascia made from masonite.

    After all modules were secured in place, My son Jacob and I painted the inside of the modules a flat sky color. I am either going to paint the backdrop or use a photo background. I’m still undecided at the time of this writing as to what direction I am going.

    Tim provided 3mm sheets for the fascia and valances, however, I decided to use masonite to give it a smoother finish and hide the module ends. I then painted both black. This is an old theater trick to force the viewers eyes into the scene on stage and works well with model railroads.

    Lighting

    I added a “ceiling” to my modules using 9mm plywood after I painted the inside the same blue color. I should have applied these before I hung the modules as the corner module is too large for me to reach the back. Luck my youngest son, Jacob, was willing to test the strength of Tims work and nail them in place.

    Behind the valance I installed LED light fixtures. These work quite well and put off quite a bit of light. I am also considering adding recessed lighting to each module to help fill the modules with extra lighting. I still have a bit of experimentation to do .

    Wrapping Up

    I’m waiting on the final module to be finished but while I’m waiting I plan on starting the track for the three modules. Once the final module arrives, I will finish the fascia as well as finalize the lighting arrangement.

  • Building a Right O’ Way Switch Kit

    Building a Right O’ Way Switch Kit

    Shawn Branstetter

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    A while ago, Jay Criswell, owner of Right O’ Way, approached me and mentioned he was designing a new switch kit in both standard O scale (Ow5) and Proto48. He mentioned he was teaming up with Brad Strong from Signature Switch Co. to produce a switch that would be easy to assemble for both the novice and experienced model builder. Jay explained these switches would utilize Right O’ Way details with the expert track building of Brad. I was intrigued.

    Well, Brad and Jay completed a prototype of both a number 6 switch in code 125, and with an acrylic template for placing ties and locating the track. I was asked if I would assemble the prototype and jumped at the opportunity. With that in mind, I thought I would share my experience of the build along with additional tips and tricks to speed up your build.

    The Kit

    There are two separate products included in this article; the acrylic tie jig and the switch kit. Along with the switch kit, Jay provided extra details, which included; Gauge Plates, Rail Braces (with no tie plates), Rail Braces (with tie plates), Code 125 Tie Plates, 24″ Flat Tie Plates, and Code 125 Rail Joiners. The switch itself already has a bolted style frog in place along with 16′ – 6″ switch points. Both are cast in nickel silver and loaded with cast-on details. The list of components may change before the production kit is complete, so please contact ROW for more detail.

    The two products: acrylic tie jig and number 6 switch.
    The included details.

    Laying the Ties
    Typically, I would roughen and weather the ties before I glue them in place, however, the switch is intended to be displayed so we decided to leave it unfinished to show off the parts.

    I set the ties into the tie jig and marked the rail locations on the end of the ties. I then used painter’s tape to secure the tie so I could remove them from the jig.

    Wood glue was spread onto the base and the ties were set in place. Once the glue was dry, I finished marking the ties to place the rail in the correct location.

    Laying the Switch

    The switch is completely isolated so the modeler can run DC or DCC depending on their preference. Normally when I hand lay track, I focus on one rail at a time, however, since these are already assembled, I had to improvise and discovered a couple new techniques I found useful. As with all my switches, I like to solder the brass details to the rail when appropriate. Not wanting to be wasteful, I put the ROW labels that were attached to the detail parts to good use.

    I set the switch in place and marked the rail heads with a felt-tip pen on the tie centers. I then put a label under the switch points and began to solder the rail braces into place. The paper was used to protect the ties from being burnt from the heat from my soldering iron. Now, if you are a fire marshal, please don’t yell too loud. I was very careful and had a squirt bottle of water close by just in case. There may be much better material to use for this, however, the paper worked very well and no burn marks on the paper or wood ties.

    Now for the gauge plate. I create an insulator between the two brass castings by gluing a piece of the label to one end with ACC. When the glue was dry, I trimmed it with an X-Acto knife and glued the two ends together. Although the switch kit come with PC boards soldered to the railheads, you will want to keep a couple of rail gauges handy to ensure that your rails are in gauge when you begin removing the PC boards.

    I remove the board at the base of the switch. Then place the rail gauge under the rails and make sure it’s centered. I then solder it in place checking to make sure gauge is correct. To finish the gauge plate, the kit comes with 2 rail braces with out tie plates. I thin the base with a file so they match the height of the other braces and solder them on the ends. Any access flashing was filed down and the gauge plate was trimmed to match the length of the other tie plates. Finally, I use a wire wheel attachment in my motor tool and polish the castings.

    At this point, I would consider cleaning everything to remove any oils or residues before you add any of the plastic details. If I were going to paint and weather the switch, I would also do it now before spiking into place. It makes painting much easier!

    I spike the switch in place leaving 4 ties between my tie plates and the next PC board. To sweat the PC boards off of the railheads, I used my soldering iron and placed it onto the rail head. The heat will loosen the solder and with tweezers, I can pull it off the rails with very little effort. I then continue spiking the rail down and continue towards the frog and guardrails. I removed the first PC board on the frog then applied the plastic rail joiners to secure the rails to the frog.

    I continue checking gauge as I spike the stock rail first, then the frog. I then check the gauge of the curved stock rail and then spike that into place. Since most of the rail is secured into place, I sweat off the final PC board and continue spiking the frog and stock rails.

    I added the remaining rails along with the plastic rail joiners to complete the kit.

    Final Thoughts

    I found this kit very easy to build and went together in about four hours after the ties were glued in place and dry. Jay has also mentioned that he plans on offering different size switches as well as rail sizes, depending on response from the modeling community. For those looking to hand lay switches for the first time, this is a great way to get started. For those of you who are well versed at hand-laying track, I see this greatly speeding up production. I have a couple on order and I am looking forward to this kit to make it out of development and available to purchase.

  • Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 2

    Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 2

    Shawn Branstetter

    Last time I wrote a brief backstory to my freelanced shortline railroad. As mentioned, it helps me focus on a design direction. Looking at my map, I decided to focus on the interchange with Southern Pacific and the Sierra Pacific Railroad’s shops.

    My layout room is 12 feet by 12 feet. I plan to build the railroad to Proto48 standards. My idea is to construct a modular layout, so if we ever move, I can take the railroad with me. I drew a track plan to get an idea of how the benchwork would fill the layout room. The overall layout will be 11 feet by 8 feet. I plan to have a small extension just past Angels Creek to allow me to switch more cars into the interchange.

    The Design

    You’ll notice that the mainline and interchange tracks not parallel to the front fascia. To me, this adds more realism and visual interest to a scene and does not look so “cookie-cutter” or toy-like. This is just a personal preference and something I have learned over the years designing dioramas. As with most of the layout, the scenes will be simple and designed to focus the viewers eyes on the track and trains. The scenery is there to help place the viewer in the scene and tell the story of the locale.

    Photo from Compass Realty

    The three major design elements are going to be the bridge at Angels Creek, the SP interchange, and the shops area. As mentioned, all models will be viewed up close and I really want to focus on details. I also want to learn more about prototype track construction, which means, a lot of research will go into every model. I am not a true “rivet counter” but I do like to see how far I can push my model building skills and this layout should provide the perfect opportunity.

    The Angels Creek bridge will be about nine-inches in length and almost three-inches tall. Not a massive bridge compared to most model railroads but perfect for the scene. However, with the amount of hardware that goes into wood trestle construction, this should prove to be a great point of interest to photograph trains.

    Moving into the SP interchange, again this should be a rather simple scene. The goal of this scene is to provide interesting motive power, and equipment in the beautiful Sierra foothills. There will also be a bit more maintenance to the rails compared to the shortline, Sierra Pacific Railroad, and maybe some additional track equipment.

    Finally the shops area. I have not fully fleshed out the details of this area as I’m waiting for the final benchwork assembly to allow me to finalize measurements and track arrangements. I do know that a large shop building will be located here along with some locomotive services for both steam and diesel.

    The Sierra Railroad converted a railcar into a fuel oil storage. A steam pump, using compressed air, would pump oil into the tenders. I am hoping to have a similar car for servicing steam or diesel locomotives in the shops area.

    Benchwork

    Benchwork has never been my strong suit so, I decided to reach out to Tim Horn Lasercutting. Tim produces beautiful laser-cut modules and graciously agreed to build all five modules for me. Tim was able to create a plan based on a rough sketch I provided.

    Here are my original drawing which was used to design the modules.

    Track

    I plan to build the track in sections on the bench which will allow me to focus on details. This is going to be important since everything will be viewed up-close. I will be using Right-O’-Way rail and accessories for most of the track components.

    For the mainline and SP Interchange, I will be using code 125 rail, which is approximately 90-pound rail on the prototype. Similar to the Sierra Railroad which upgraded their mainline to 90-pound rail in the 1950s to accommodate Mallet, number 38. I want to have lighter rail around the shops and yard to represent original rails that have not been upgraded. I will be using code 100 rail in those areas which is approximately 75 pounds per yard.

    Final Thought

    For those following the build, please be patient. I’m hoping the build takes quite some time and articles may not be written as often as I would like. I also hope to share what I learn along the way and advise from more experienced modelers is always welcome.

  • Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 1

    Building the Sierra Pacific Railroad – Part 1

    Shawn Branstetter

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    Growing up in the Sierra Foothills, history was everywhere, especially railroad history. My father worked for the Pickering Lumber Company in Standard, California, which only fueled my love for shortline railroads. I began to learn about all the railroads in the area as a kid. Today, all my work as a model builder tends to focus in and around that area.

    Now there are two basic types of model builders; prototype and freelance. I have always admired prototype modelers and share some of the same passions they have. However, the artist in me enjoys taking liberties in my work. I have always loved the Sierra Railroad, the Hetch Hetchy, Pickering Lumber Co., The Empire City Railway, and the Central California Traction company. I also have a difficult time trying to stay focused on a single railroad to model, which is why I’d rather build freelanced models based on all of those railroads.

    The Railroads History

    To me, model railroading allows an artist to tell his or her story through three-dimensional work. History or a back-story of that model is important to tell as it helps set the stage for both the viewer and the model builder. That goes for both prototype and freelance models. 

    My railroad, the Sierra Pacific Railroad, was formed by two lumber companies; Alpine Lumber Company and Sapp Brothers Forest Products. The two railroads needed a way to ship material to and from their operations since there were no other railroads in the area. The railroad would also service mines and timber operations in Calaveras and Tuolumne Counties. 

    The railroad was headquartered in Angels Camp and formed in 1899. This location was perfect as it interchanged with the Sierra Railroad’s Angels Branch. After the Sierra Abandoned the branch in the 1930s, the Southern Pacific expanded its Kentucky House Branch to interchange with the railroad. 

    The railroad purchased a small 4-4-0 rod engine, second-hand to pull trains. However, as the trains grew, the railroad would need larger locomotives to pull the longer, heavier trains up the mountain. In 1939, the railroad purchased a 2-8-2 tank engine from the Sugar Pine Railroad and a Pacific Coast Shay from the Feather River Railway in 1940.

    Route

    The entire line stretches 54.2 miles as it winds through the hills from Copperopolis to Arnold, California. As mentioned, the Southern Pacific interchange is located in Angels Camp. All cars going in and out are spotted here and picked up by the SP.

    Copperopolis had a large copper mine and smelter. The railroad served it in it’s later years. After the mine closed, the railroad served the asbestos plant. 

    East of Angels Camp, there is a feed and tractor supply which the railroad services. Continuing up the mountain, the railroad serves an oil company and gravel company in Douglas Flat.

    In Murphys, Alpine Lumber Company receives equipment, and lumber is picked up to be interchanged with the SP. A few miles east, the railroad continues to Sapp Brothers Forest Products located in Arnold. Again, any equipment needed is delivered, and lumber is picked up to be interchanged with the SP.

    Model

    Now that I have the layout setting and customers defined, I can now begin planning the layout. My layout room is 12 feet by 12 feet and I will be focusing on the Angels Camp and the SP interchange for the layout. In the next installment, I will describe the track plan as well as discuss the layout construction.